Ethiopia, a journey from Addis Ababa to the Omo Valley
When you travel extensively people often ask “what’s your favourite country?”, and up until most recently I’ve always had differing responses. This is because I’m constantly discovering new places that blow my mind and literally take my breath away. My emotions become so heightened when I think about the experience of being up close and personal with indigenous tribes from Myanmar to Djibouti, and the whole new cultural perspective I gain. When I encounter spectacular nature that I’ve never even thought existed on this planet, and when I’ve been exposed to ancient monuments of unprecedented cultural historical significance, that transport me back to biblical times. For this reason, I’ve struggled to name one place I favour more than others, however, that was until recently when I visited a country that encompassed all the things mentioned above and more; Ethiopia!
Despite only visiting Ethiopia for the first time a couple of years ago, it was the first African country that I was exposed to as a youngster. My uncle, a Jamaican immigrant, has been a Rastafarian for as long as I can remember, probably even before I was born. I grew up in a Jamaican community in the UK where Rastafarianism was part of the culture. This religious and spiritual movement of Jamaican origin regarded Emperor Hailie Selassie of Ethiopia, the Messiah, and saw Ethiopia as the ‘Promised Land”, and a rite of passage back to Africa.
Living in the UAE just a 4-hour flight from the capital Addis Ababa, my birthday was the perfect time to venture off the beaten track and immerse myself in a cultural experience like no other. For me this trip was all about authenticity, no large tour groups, in fact no tour groups at all. I wanted to go remote, real remote and was willing to sacrifice all of my creature comforts for a once in a lifetime experience. So, it dawned on me that I wouldn’t be able to do this alone and just rock up at a village and say ‘hi, my name is Theresa, nice to meet you”. I needed to source a local guide who was part of the community, someone who was able to get me inside access. Teddy, my guide from Addis with his connections in the Omo community, was that person!
After an early morning arrival into Addis’s international airport, I had just under 24 hours in which to visit Trinity Cathedral, the burial place of Emperor Haile Selassie, the National Museum, home to Lucy, the world’s oldest skeleton at 3.8 million years old, and the Ethnological Museum, former palace of Emperor Halie Selassie now home to ancient artefacts that date back to the Akumsunite period (AD 1st – 8th Century). This whistle stop tour also included a short hike up Mount Entoto, the highest peak in Addis, where I took in the breathtaking views of the city and surrounding forests. On the way back to the city I asked for an unscheduled stop to experience the sights and sounds of a local street market, bartering my way through a purchase.
Next, it was time for some sustenance (a girl’s gotta eat), and Ethiopia is known for its unique, flavorful, colourful and delicious cuisine. I sat down at a local restaurant with Teddy and our driver Amadi, where we set out on a communal culinary experience. Dishes came served on a large round tray known as a gebeta. No meal is complete without the Ethiopian staple injera, which some now consider a superfood. Injera is definitely unique in texture and flavor. One may describe its texture as a giant light-greyish flat spongy pancake. Despite its unusual look, it’s the perfect accompaniment to the bowls of rich spicy stews, curries and vegetables. There’s no room for cutlery, that’s the role of the injera. Pieces of the injera are torn off with your hands and used to scoop up the delicious dishes. Eating Ethiopian cuisine is definitely an amazing experience to be shared amongst family and friends.
Omo Valley - Here We Come!
Early the next morning after a good night’s sleep it was time to head to the airport to catch a flight for a 3-day tour of the Omo Valley. Located in southern Ethiopia, the Omo Valley is about as remote as you can get. This distant region is accessed by a 1-hour flight to what I consider a basic airstrip in Jinka, the provisional town of the Omo Valley tribes’ people. With Teddy and a local driver at the ready we embarked on a 4-hour journey deep into the Omo Valley passing mainly through dry sandy plains. As for other vehicles, the roads were completely empty, although local traffic consisted of young shepherds herding their goats.
After a long hot drive, we finally arrived at the home of the Hamer tribe. This was it, I was on my own National Geographic assignment, such a surreal experience. A local community guide we had picked up a mile away or so from the village, led the way making a path through a small herd of lambs continuing until we reached a small cluster of mud and wood huts with thatched style roofs. We were greeted by one of the tribesmen who we followed into the village.
What I recall most about the Hamer people were the women. They are absolutely beautiful, and their hair is so distinctive and striking. Coated with cow fat and ochre powder, their red-dyed hair is twisted into perfectly tight coils, and their bodies adorned with colorful beaded jewelry. Dressed in traditional leather skirts decorated with beads these women are simply stunning.
From here we headed to the market town of Dimeka and were lucky to arrive on market day. The Hamer people travel a whole day to sell their wares at the market where the atmosphere is lively and loud. Despite the rain, the market was brimming with locals and Hamer people, as well as a handful of tourists eyeing the jewelry, wood carvings and masks. Just a 10-minute drive through a shallow river was perhaps what I thought would be the pinnacle of my Ethiopian experience, the bull jumping ceremony. I had only ever seen this on travel documentaries and was somewhat excited, yet apprehensive to experience this ancient Hamer tribe ritual where a young boy becomes a man. We arrived at the river ready to make the crossing only to hear that the rains had made the crossing too dangerous. I was gutted!
The next morning (my birthday) after sleeping at a very basic lodge, it was time to meet the people of the Daasanech tribe. There was a noticeable difference in the landscape when compared to the Hamer people, and I got a sense that life was much harder here. The landscape appeared semi-arid with so little opportunity to grow crops. I quickly understood why cattle are central to their survival, i.e. milk, meat and hides. The Daasanech people are really endearing and hospitable, and I was even invited into one of the huts. These semi-nomadic people live in circular huts, with weaved branches that are covered mainly with animal skin and/or metal sheets. It was here that I had an experience like no other. I was invited to join a small group of girls who performed a traditional tribal dance for my birthday. Pinch me, did it really happen? I get goosebumps just thinking about it, a memory that will last a lifetime.
My final day in the valley quickly approached, with just one last tribe left to visit, the Mursi tribe. This was truly national geo level, and I have to be honest, a little scary. The Mursai are warriors who carry AK47’s, and believe me they are very intimidating. The women on the other hand are known for their lower lip and earlobe plates. As they get older, the holes are increased over time until they can reach the size of a side plate! A truly remarkable and powerful experience that bought my travels to the Omo Valley to a close.
The Omo Valley is a place where time stands still, and traditions hold true; a place like no other. The uniqueness of the people and landscape is truly unforgettable, but it doesn’t end there. Known as the cradle of mankind, Ethiopia is in my opinion one of the most culturally stimulating countries in the world. That’s why I returned again last year for another epic adventure in the north.
